From the tasting team

Master of Wine Toni Paterson on why semillon might be your new favourite white variety

By Toni Paterson MW

1 day ago

Semillon is one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets, but Master of Wine Toni Paterson wants more folks to know about it.

How often do we hear – or say – “I’ll have a glass of white, please” – as if all white wines are interchangeable?

Perhaps you’re after something light on its feet but full of quiet confidence. A wine that’s pristine, unoaked, moderate in alcohol, and brimming with citrus energy. If that’s what you’re looking for, then what you’re really after is semillon.

It’s one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. Many people don’t realise they love it until they try it.

High in charm, it doesn’t shout for attention but rewards the drinker with purity, subtlety, and a sense of place. Versatile, distinctive, and easy to love, its spiritual home in Australia is the Hunter Valley, where the style is unique. It stands tall and proud without needing blending partners or oak – mirroring its region, site and maker.

Toni PatersonToni Paterson MW.

Single-vineyard semillons are especially prized for the precision with which they reflect the soil and specific microclimate of the vineyard. Although semillons can age magnificently, they’re remarkably approachable when young, particularly when contemporary winemaking is paired with a warmer year like 2024. The wines have instant appeal and flavour while maintaining freshness and clarity.

Here are some top recent releases under $50 from the 2024 season, many from single vineyards, plus a stunning aged example from 2018 to demonstrate just how well semillon evolves with time.

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Fragrant with high-toned lemon zest aromas. The palate is assertive and vibrant, with piercing ripe lemon and wet stone flavours.

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This classic Hunter semillon, made exclusively from hand-picked fruit, offers incredible value with its pure lemony fruit, palate breadth, freshness, and length.

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Ultimately refreshing with a lithe palate that has a gorgeous flow.

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A pristine palate with power and weight, defined by a strong core of acidity. Purity is its hallmark, with just the right amount of texture and shape.

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An expressive, full-flavoured semillon from the Broke-Fordwich subregion that has golden kiwi notes and lemony tones.

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A perfectly proportioned, single vineyard semillon, with sublime purity, airy citrus zest, and scented quince plus nuances of starfruit and a fresh-squeeze of ripe lime.

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Classically styled with delicate lemon juice and lime blossom aromas. Excellent front and mid-palate flavour intensity, with a defined acid line.

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This inaugural release blooms beautifully with time in the glass, revealing detailed lemony scents, purity and intensity.

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Sourced from the Braemore Vineyard, planted in '69, the wine has intense flavours of preserved lemon, passionfruit, lime leaf, and a hint of ripe gooseberry. The palate is long and utterly delicious.

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A stunning aged example of Stevens Vineyard semillon from a warmer season. This wine is in a sweet spot, with an expressive lemon curd aroma, a subtle smoky overlay and subtle sweet pear and white peach flavours.