Earlier this year a Champagne story popped into my news feed, reporting that the region’s style had become richer during the last couple of decades. A natural consequence of climate change, the piece continued, adding that Champagne’s exposure to drought is set to triple by the 2050s, according to the S&P Global Sustainable1 report.
The article suggested that some producers welcome – if not encourage – the extra richness now provided by this change in climatic conditions, as it sets them apart from the ‘others’, the undeniably improved traditional method wines from across the world, some of which can’t offer as much richness yet, whether that’s due to cooler conditions or a younger industry with a smaller back catalogue of reserve wines.
The effect of climate change on Champagne has been well documented. The harvest dates alone point to an inevitable change in style as picking now happens a full fortnight earlier than it used to. And while houses nurture their cuvées to reflect desired styles, are they really being encouraged to be richer to distinguish themselves from the growing competition? This sounds unlikely and yet, somehow possible.
The style of Champagne is evolving just as they have always evolved for more than two centuries.
“The style of Champagne is evolving just as they have always evolved for more than two centuries,” says Bertrand Lhôpital, cellar master and vineyard director for Champagne Telmont. “The Champagnes we tasted at the beginning of the last century are not those of today.”
Referring to earlier picking dates, Bertrand elaborates, “We [now] observe a difference between sugar maturity and aromatic maturity from the harvest.” While picking in August is beneficial for increasing the sugar and reducing the acids, he says the aromatic development can’t catch up, “forcing us to seek a higher sugar maturity” to obtain the aromatic maturity. While this is a natural consequence of climate change, it isn’t a deliberate decision.
One deliberate choice however, and less controversial than it used to be, is the widespread return of oak. The varying factors from toasting levels to the size of barrels all have a very deliberate impact on the flavour and potential richness. Does change in attitude suggest Champagne houses now generally want a richer style?
Alex Gillery, head of marketing at Pol Roger, says they don’t. In line with the global palate, “The trends are more towards lighter Champagnes, using more chardonnay, as evidenced in our Brut Vintage.” Like everyone else, Pol Roger also picks earlier than before, “because we reach the needed maturity earlier, and [therefore] use a little less dosage at the end.”
It’s a worthy debate from each side. The climate change-caused richness is inevitable while the stylistic and/or trend-following decisions are very much in the hands of the individual house and winemaker. Whether these decisions are being made in the face of competition will never be admitted to, even if they’re true.
“As much as we value the quality of [other] sparkling wines, we still believe in our terroir, know-how and heritage to keep producing fine Champagnes known for their complexity and finesse. And when you don’t follow trends, you end up being fashionable from time to time!” Very true Alex, very true.
Champagne to try
2007 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires
12.4% alc. RRP 470, drink by 2030
Now a B Corp certified house, and one that flies under the radar but is loved by the cognoscenti, this once ugly duckling of a vintage (that was fantastic for chardonnay) is now showing its full beauty. Yes, the acidity is peppy, but the layers of lemon curd, brioche and putty salinity make this very exciting to drink right now.
Devaux Cuvée D
12% alc. RRP 75, drink by 2036
Devaux, whose Côte de Bar location is now super fashionable (although prices happily haven’t caught up yet), brings a new dimension of pinot noir to the table. As we see in this multi-award wining cuvée – a fraction of which is fermented in oak – its marmalade, caramelised nut and creamy richness makes for incredible value.
2015 Pol Roger Brut Vintage
12.5% alc. RRP 175, drink by 2030
Pol doesn’t add meunier to its vintage cuvées, and this pinot noir and chardonnay blend has a great definition and poise. At first, an explosion of primroses and buttery pastries, leading to a palate of fantastically balanced proportions, a coming together of richness and power with finesse and freshness.
Bollinger Special Cuvée
12% alc. RRP 98, drink by 2032
No-one can deny this is one of the GOAT flagship cuvées in the whole of Champagne. Bollinger masters pinot noir to perfection, here with 25% chardonnay and 15% meunier fermented in oak barrels, it produces a beautifully elegant wine with brioche structure, vivacious energy and a long nutty finish. Sublime.
Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème edition
12.5% alc. RRP 400, drink by 2032
Blenders par excellence, Krug demonstrates once again with this non-vintage release – now incorporating some 2015 fruit – that the precision and generosity of flavour does not hamper the vibrancy or complexity of the wine, with lashings of ginger, nuts and vanilla alongside the roasted grapefruit.
2012 Bruno Paillard Assemblage
13% alc. RRP 207, drink by 2032
Known for its consistently low dosage levels and extended ageing, this is another cognoscenti’s favourite and now, from this well-documented sensational vintage, we have a 60/40% pinot noir/chardonnay with eye-popping tension that quickly opens out into a symphony of nutty, apple compote, nutmeg and lemon flavours.
2014 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Vintage Brut
12% alc. RRP 175, drink by 2034
Salon’s sister house has produced another expressive vintage here, only the third vintage to draw on fruit from all six Grands Crus in the Côtes des Blancs. Heightened aromas of honeysuckle and fennel followed by lemon and ginger palate that’s uplifting yet weighty.
Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV
12.5% alc. RRP 250, drink by 2031
Four generations in, and Egly-Ouriet has carved out a top-notch reputation for not obsessing (as some do) over acidity. Even so, this 70/30% pinot noir/chardonnay blend has a super-low dosage at 2 g/L and shows immense tastiness with traces of sesame and caramel. It’s mineral laden on the mid-palate with finesse and refreshment in equal measure.
Jacquesson Cuvée 746 Extra Brut
12.5% alc. RRP 138, drink by 2038
Run by two brothers, this house favours minimal dosage (<1g/L) and extended lees ageing, really pushing the envelope stylistically, but the brave winemaking decision pays off as this is yet another success. An ‘NV’ that is in fact based on vintage, 2018 here, rich, even dense, with toasted almonds, marzipan and juicy peach with a long tangy finish.
Collard-Picard Cuvée Selection Extra Brut
12.5% alc. RRP 120, drink by 2030
A lesser-known grower that’s farming organically with bits of land all over the region. No to mlf and yes to native yeasts, this has a supreme elegance with a hallmark richness. Genteel, elegant with baked apples, roasted grapefruit and a flicker of cinnamon.
J. De Telmont Réserve Brut NV
12% alc. RRP 254, drink by 2029
Let’s NOT talk about how Leonardo di Caprio is one of the shareholders (ahem), instead let’s talk about how this house is on a serious green mission. This flagship cuvée majors on meunier (53%), which lends a distinctive red apple fleshy note to the flavour, while three years on lees and mlf provides a healthy lick of vanilla.
Tattinger Brut Réserve NV
12.5% alc. RRP 100, drink by 2023
A quintessential Brut NV from the stable of Comtes, so you know the chardonnay is epic. Bright, luscious, with brioche and peach. Tangy and savoury, lush yet reined in, it holds all the contrasts of what’s required to make a powerful flagship cuvée. Bravo.
This article first appeared in issue #73 of Halliday magazine. Become a member to receive all four issues per year delivered to your door, digital access to over 180,000 tasting notes from 4000+ wineries and distilleries, and much more.
