Chapel Hill is marking its 50th vintage. To celebrate, the McLaren Vale winery is unveiling its inaugural The Devil Shiraz from the 2020 vintage. Chief winemaker Michael Fragos says The Devil takes its name from the idea that 'the devil is in the detail'.
The Devil's fruit comes from the oldest vines on Chapel Hill's House Block. Only eight barrels of wine were produced for the first flagship release. Alongside the 2020 The Devil, the 2024 icon release includes the 2021 The Vicar Shiraz, 2021 Road Block Shiraz, and the 2021 Gorge Block Cabernet Sauvignon.
"When it comes to crafting a fine wine, success is down to even the tiniest of details being executed perfectly. I feel we’ve done that with The Devil Shiraz, and it’s a fitting tribute to celebrate our 50th vintage," says Michael.
Michael joined Chapel Hill as chief winemaker in 2003, and turned his attention to implementing sustainable practices in the vineyard and winery. "A major focus for the team over the last 10 years has been on improving our vineyards' soils and, more specifically, the soils and vines in our House Block. It’s a tiny block, just 0.8 hectares, but it has always had huge potential. The geology of the block is a very humbling 550 million years old.
"The excellent work of Bryn Richards, our senior winemaker, and Rachel Steer, our senior viticulturist, has resulted in what is now a wonderfully even and healthy block. Specifically, age-old techniques we’ve implemented have brought new life to our old vines."
Chapel Hill's 2024 icon release tasting notes
2020 Chapel Hill The Devil Shiraz, McLaren Vale
This is a new bottling for Chapel Hill, from a 0.8ha block of vines planted in '77 – the oldest estate vines – and carefully curated of late to produce a pinnacle bottling, presented in a hefty bottle. This is dense, deeply earthy, mulchy, anise-and-coffee-inflected wine, something crafted to reflect substance, gravitas. The oak is French, with a modest – for the ambition – 20 per cent new timber, but likely the rest has seen only recent fills. It’s an impressive, intense, weighty and slightly heady affair with dark spices, moist tobacco and rum notes accenting the fruit. Although pegged back from the reserve styles of yore, this still feels in that mien. – Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 pointsRRP $180 | Drink to 2034
2021 Chapel Hill The Vicar Shiraz, McLaren Vale
An assemblage of estate blocks and from two trusted growers, this saw 21 months' maturation in French oak (24 per cent new). There’s some meaty depth to this, along with a lick of malty, nutty oak, but the sermon these days is less fire and brimstone, a little more inclusive, bringing in a broader flock. The flavours are still resolutely dark, spiced plum, blackberry, soft licorice, salumi, master stock and turned humus with a rusty, ferrous note underpinning, a certain glide and buoyancy of feel. There’s no absence of power and richness, but the savoury balance is keen and tannins succulent. – Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 pointsRRP $80 | Drink to 2032
2021 Chapel Hill Road Block Shiraz, McLaren Vale
Very good warm-climate shiraz. Full weighted and powerful, yet there is nothing overt, jammy or caricature-like. The oak is tucked in and the fruit is dark and blue of allusion, yet doused with tapenade, mint, anise, thyme and lavender, conferring a welcome savouriness over a more typical sweetness. Fine floral lift, too, segueing to a glade of spruced tannins and saline freshness. – Ned Goodwin MW, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 pointsRRP $65 | Drink to 2033
2021 Chapel Hill Gorge Block Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale
This is very good Vale cabernet. Broad, full and yet beautifully delineated by an escarpment of kelpy salinity, embedded oak and maritime freshness with an accent of hedgerow and mint to accentuate lift. Currant, olive and dried sage are buried amidst. The finish is long and forceful, yet the signature is one of savoury refinement over sheer oomph. – Ned Goodwin MW, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 pointsRRP $65 | Drink to 2033
For more information and to shop the new Chapel Hill wines visit chapelhillwine.com.au.
