Cullen’s Diana Madeline and Kevin John are widely considered to be among the best – if not the best – examples of cabernet and chardonnay in the country.
The Margaret River winery released the latest vintages of these flagship wines at the beginning of May. Usually out around February, winemaker and managing director Vanya Cullen delayed this year’s release (and will do the same for future releases) to minimise the risk of heat damage. But, as always, these wines are worth the wait.
The Diana Madeline comes from the “brilliant” 2023 vintage, and while built for ageing, “delights as soon as it’s poured,” according to Jane Faulkner. The Kevin John comes from the 2024 vintage – which the winery says was the “hottest, driest and earliest harvest” on record – yet early picking and judicious use of oak have resulted in what Jane describes as “a pleasing outcome”. You can read her reviews in full below.
Vanya Cullen, flanked by senior winemaker Andy Barrett-Lennard and vineyard manager Brian Martin.
Both wines come from 50+ year old vines planted by Vanya’s parents (and the wines’ namesakes), Diana Madeline and Kevin John, in the Wilyabrup subregion in 1971. The Cullens were among the first to plant vines in the region, and have continued to lead the charge with their unparalleled commitment to biodynamic viticulture.
Truly, nowhere is the adage ‘wine is made in the vineyard’ truer than at Cullen. The vineyard has been certified biodynamic since 2004 (and farmed organically since 1998), and while the various applications and moon-led picking cycles that biodynamics demands may once have raised a few eyebrows, the results speak for themselves.
As the winery says, it’s the team’s commitment to biodynamic farming that results in the quality of fruit that makes these wines exceptional, year in year out.
Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Wilyabrup Cabernet Merlot 2023
This Diana Madeline delights as soon as it's poured. A deep, dark purple-red and so vibrant. Ah the aromas next – all cedar wood, oak spices and warm earth with fresh mulberries and blackberry essence. It has concentrated, fabulous fruit on the fuller-bodied palate yet there’s a fineness, too, with supple tannins enmeshed in lively acidity. It’s a gorgeous drink. Too young now as it’s showing off its youthful exuberance. Give this a few more years in the cellar to build more complexity and detail; it's guaranteed to age beautifully for another two or so decades. – Jane Faulkner, 97 points
Cullen Wines Kevin John Wilyabrup Chardonnay 2024
A warm and dry vintage in ’24 yet the fruit was picked early, between the 11th and 19th January, with five hand harvests according to the biodynamic calendar. Aged 6 months in 50% new French oak puncheons. And yet, it's almost a pared-back style given the richness and flavour we’re accustomed to with Kevin John – everything reined in by fine acidity. It’s a pleasing outcome. Grapefruit and white peach, cedar/caramel oak spices and a light fragrance of lemon blossom. Not all upfront fruit; there’s a savouriness throughout, a fine layer of nougat/nutty lees and a tug of phenolics that adds more shape. – Jane Faulkner, 96 points
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