Pre-eminent Yarra Valley producer Oakridge Wines is flying high after a string of accolades, including being named Australia’s number one winery in the inaugural Halliday Wine Companion Top 100 Wineries for 2023 (as selected by Campbell Mattinson) and Halliday Wine Companion’s Best Value Winery for 2024.
“It was nice to be recognised,” says chief winemaker David Bicknell, although he’s not one to seek the limelight. For more than 20 years, David has quietly embraced a sense of spirit and experimentation through trial and error while his distinctive and ageworthy wines, especially chardonnay and pinot noir, have amassed a global following.
His unique blend of innovation and tradition today culminates in a distinct ‘Yarra Valley flavour’ that’s no more evident than in Oakridge’s Vineyard Series, with the 2022 vintage out now.
“The devil is in the detail,” David says. His focus and resolute nature have brought Oakridge to the forefront of Australia’s cool-climate wine scene as leading single-site specialists, the prized Upper Yarra sites of Hazeldene (Gladysdale), Willowlake (Gladysdale) and Henk (Woori Yallock) carrying cachet among drinkers and collectors alike.
“Willowlake is a classic example of an older vineyard. There's a richness and roundness that we get with these wines,” David says. “Henk is a younger, more modern vineyard, with a more modern setup in lots of ways. The wines reflect this youthfulness, there's an athleticism to them.”
The 2022 vintage was high calibre, he says, calling it one of the best of the past decade. With extremely low yields, each wine is a testament to perseverance, showcasing exceptional quality and fruit purity despite the challenges faced throughout the growing season. Chardonnay was a highlight, the late harvest producing outstanding wines of high natural acidity, while for pinot noir, the low yields resulted in highly concentrated, bright and perfumed expressions.
Dave’s overarching ethos is to make wines of purity and balance. It all starts in the vineyard, where chief viticulturist Steve Faulkner works his magic. Fruit is grown responsibly with certification via Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. Grapes are hand-picked and the wines hand-crafted with minimal intervention. The resulting wines reflect the unique characteristics and personalities of each vineyard.
“The best wines are still to come,” David says. “There are always things that we look at every year and go, maybe we could have done that a little bit better. We don't sit back and accept that it's the limit of our possibility.”
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Henk Chardonnay
Hand picked, whole-bunch pressed to 500L French puncheons (20 per cent new) and matured for 10 months on lees. From the red volcanic soils at Woori Yallock. A bright green gold. Complex with stone fruits, marine scents and pebbles that make this just ever so slightly reminiscent of good Chablis. Restrained, powerful, nutty and long, this is a very good Henk, and one that's going to go the distance. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 pointsRRP $48 | Drink to 2036 | Shop this wine
2023 James Halliday Australian Chardonnay & Cabernet Challenge – gold
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Hazeldene Chardonnay
From chardonnay planted at the Hazeldene Vineyard at Gladysdale in '13. Whole-bunch pressed straight to puncheons (less than 20 per cent new) followed by a natural-yeast fermentation and time on lees without stirring. A very bright green gold. Savoury and nuanced with aromas of white peach, confit lemon and hazelnuts. Lovely mid-palate intensity, drive and structure. Super, even now, but equally this has much more to offer over the next few years. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 pointsRRP $48 | Drink to 2030 | Shop this wine
2023 James Halliday Australian Chardonnay & Cabernet Challenge – gold
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Willowlake Chardonnay
All P58 clone from '80 and '82 plantings. Whole-bunch pressed to 500L puncheons (about 20 per cent new). No lees stirring. A touch brighter and deeper in colour than the Hazeldene. Sexy stuff from the first whiff with its aromas of stone fruits, acacia honey and grilled nuts. Glides effortlessly across the silken-textured palate. You know it will age well, but this is an Oakridge chardonnay that you won't need to wait too long to enjoy. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 pointsRRP $48 | Drink to 2029 | Shop this wine
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Henk Pinot Noir
A blend of MV6, C777 and C115 clones from the '08-planted Henk Vineyard at Woori Yallock. Approximately 20 per cent whole bunches. Matured in both 300L and 500L casks (less than 10 per cent new). A deepish, bright cherry red. Subtle reduction. Very brightly fruited with its aromas of ripe strawberries, spiced cherries and pomegranate. Firm, in a good way, on the palate. Good energy and drive too. Structured and built to last – one of the themes of the very good 2022 vintage in the Yarra. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 96 pointsRRP $48 | Drink to 2030 | Shop this wine
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Hazeldene Pinot Noir
From '98 plantings of MV6 at Gladysdale; 30 per cent whole bunches. Matured in 300L and 500L casks (less than 10 per cent new). Pretty and delicate with its aromas of alpine strawberries, rose petal and spice. More depth than the '21. Impeccably balanced and light on its feet, fine grained and ever so gently chewy tannins round out a wine that's approachable now but will keep. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 95 pointsRRP $48 | Drink to 2029 | Shop this wine
2022 Oakridge Vineyard Series Willowlake Pinot Noir
Approximately 20 per cent whole bunches; matured in both 300L and 500L casks (less than 10 per cent new). Trophy winner for the Best Yarra Valley Pinot at the 2023 Australian Pinot Challenge. A bright, medium crimson red. A glorious and pure bouquet redolent with red and black fruits, peony and spice. Lovely depth, too, on the fresh and energetic palate culminating with tannins that are persistent and lithe. I like this a lot. – Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion, 97 points2023 Australian Pinot Noir Challenge – Best of Yarra Valley
For more information and to shop Oakridge's 2022 wines visit oakridgewines.com.au.
