As a country kid growing up on a dairy farm in rural South Australia, the Adelaide Hills was the point at which the pulse quickened on the long, winding drive to the big smoke. Back then, it was a mystical place full of creeks, moss, towering trees, mushrooms, and imagination. It still is.
These days, I call the voluptuous Adelaide Hills home but exploring them is no less exhilarating. The cool climate wine region’s charming, character-packed cellar doors, restaurants and eateries rival anything you’ll find on the global stage. They’re all located across the biodiverse, 75-kilometre cornucopia of vineyards, farms, crops, national parks, and quaint villages.
It’s a place where classic meets new world, both in and out of the glass, and where the sense of community is tangible. Best of all, it’s just a 20-to-30-minute drive from Adelaide’s CBD.
Day one
The beauty of the region’s proximity to the city means you can rest your head in the city and be in Hahndorf in time for breakfast. Skip the tourist-packed German town’s stereotypical bratwurst and pretzels and eat like a local at Ernest Delicatessen.
Here, the fried mortadella, egg, provolone, oak lettuce, tomato and balsamic-barbecue sauce sanga attracts many a local chef. The continental breakfast (cured meat, coddled egg, pickles, cheese and house-made focaccia) is also a treat.
Plan your visit right and La Prova cellar door is a must (it’s open on the first weekend of every month, or by appointment). The tasting flights are worth the effort; winemaker Sam Scott is a champion of Italian varieties and his pinot grigio, aglianico rosato, fiano, sangiovese, and barbera are enthralling, especially when he’s on hand to pour them.
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If you’re still in Hahndorf after 1pm, it would be rude to leave without popping into charming family-run Somerled Cellar Bar for a glass of crisp fumé blanc and a Spanish or French platter. An art attack of the historical kind is found on the outskirts of town at The Cedars, the gardens, home and studio that belonged to iconic landscape painter and conservationist Sir Hans Heysen.
Abhor crowds? Chase fresh air towards The Lane where the Gathering Tasting Experience pairs flagship Heritage and Estate wines with head chef Tom Robinson’s degustation-style snacks. Allow an hour and make sure to book ahead. Or, book a picnic hamper for a romantic rendezvous at one of five stunning locations amongst the towering gum trees and vineyards. Make sure you taste The Lane Gathering Gamay; it’s a great example of an increasingly exciting variety for the Hills.
Nearby, Shaw + Smith is iconic for a reason. The sleek cellar door is a great place to pause a moment and look out over the Balhannah Vineyard (a glass of M3 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or award-winning Balhannah Vineyard Shiraz in hand, of course). Nepenthe cellar door, quite literally across the road, is all class. The newly renovated, sustainability-driven cellar door has a VIP tasting room, dining space, and a terrace overlooking rolling lawns. It’s also the spot to try grüner veltliner and tempranillo.
If an unforgettable long lunch is a priority, Woodside’s LVN Restaurant can be found tucked away in Bird in Hand’s leafy surrounds. Here, executive chef Jacob Davey (ex-Restaurant Botanic) serves fine dining inspired by the bountiful kitchen garden. Allow three hours for the spectacle. If you prefer adventure over gluttony, Petaluma’s new Horse Trail Ride and Tasting Experience is a vineyard tour of the equine variety.
If there’s time, Murdoch Hill, Artwine Estate, and Simon Tolley cellar doors are nearby. The latter boasts vineyard accommodation (Simon Tolley Lodge caters for groups of four to 10) and the recently released Simon Tolley Smoked Brandy is worth coveting. It was made using smoke-tainted grapes after the Cudlee Creek bushfire ripped through the property five years ago. Winemaker Simon Tolley donated the grapes to the University of Adelaide; a heart-warming story born out of heartbreak.
The Hills are also home to some of the best pubs (and cellars) in the nation. The Crafers Hotel, the Uraidla Hotel, the Stanley Bridge Tavern, and the Scenic Hotel all serve top-notch grub with impressive wine lists. They’re a great place to try local wines by small-batch, boutique producers without cellar doors. On that front, seek out the likes of family-run Scanlon Wines, XO Wines, Vella Wines (whose Harvest Widow Chardonnay won Best Wine of Show at the 2024 Adelaide Hills Wine Show), Gentle Folk Wines, Ochota Barrels, and Basket Range Wines.
Tired? Ditch the city and stay at historic hilltop manor Mt Lofty House, home to Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant. Or, turn things up a notch and opt for luxurious Sequoia Lodge with its spring-fed hot pools and the Gatekeeper’s Day Spa. Go on, treat yourself.
Day two
First things first. Breakfast. New cute-as-a-button European-style bistro Thelma is a must for sweet and savoury baked goods (from 9am until sold out) or lunch from noon. It’s worth the hype, thanks to chef and co-owner Tom Campbell’s wholesome, local-produce-driven menu and natural wine list curated by co-owner Olivia Moore, who also owns loveable city wine bar LOC. The Piccadilly eatery is conveniently close to Mount Lofty Botanic Garden; a picturesque place to walk off yesterday’s indulgences.
It would be remiss to visit the Hills without sampling world-class sparkling, for which the region is firmly on the map. Find DAOSA Blanc de Blanc and DAOSA Natural Réserve at Piccadilly Valley’s Tapanappa cellar door (also home to Terre à Terre) which looks out at the famous The Tiers Vineyard, planted by chardonnay pioneer Brian Croser.
Next, head for small, family-run, NASAA-certified-organic CRFT Wines, where the rustic cellar door pours single vineyard grüner veltliner, chardonnay and pinot noir.
Five minutes away, you’ll find new kid on the block Hills Collide (located in the former Summertown Aristologist restaurant site). The brand, founded by winemaker Mitchell Fitzpatrick and Proof wine bar owner Shane Ettridge, boasts a thrilling flurry of grüner veltliner, gewürztraminer, dolcetto, barbera, and nebbiolo. The gourmet toasties and Danish-inspired open sandwiches are great, too.
Now, we’ve come to a fork in the road. If you’ve got an evening flight (what were you thinking?) this is the point at which a leisurely lunch at new restaurant Ondeen is the ticket. Chef Kane Pollard applies a deft hand and a no-waste attitude to the menu, served in a beautifully refurbished 1850s homestead. Kane is all heart and the dishes reflect his respect for produce and the land from which it came. Adjacent to the dining space, there’s a Tasting Room where small batch, artisan producers Silver Lining, Artis, Jericho, and Turon Wines are poured in intimate tastings led by endearing wine room manager Agnes Wyszomirska.
Or, you could head deeper into the wilderness towards Lobethal, where Vinteloper’s new cellar door is an extraordinary architectural feat that rose from the ashes after the property was destroyed by the Cudlee Creek bushfire (great snacks and wine here, too). It’s a picturesque 25-minute drive but worth every minute, especially if you stop at Mount Lofty Ranges Vineyard on the way. Lunch, prepped by UK-born head chef Matt Rodgers, draws inspiration and ingredients from the spectacular landscape surrounding the hilltop cellar door.
In Lenswood is the ‘by appointment’ tasting with former Young Gun of Wine winner Damon Koerner (Koerner Wines). It happens in the winery, surrounded by foudre, stainless steel tanks and ceramic eggs. The family’s home block nurtures chardonnay, gamay, sangiovese and savagnin.
Within walking distance, you’ll find Pavilions at Lenswood; luxury hideaways with Swiss alpine chalet, Japanese onsen, and art deco aesthetics. It’s a beautiful little corner of the world, full of apple, pear, and cherry orchards. As a treat, the Pavilions Chef Experience provides in-house dining or dinner under the stars (weather permitting and pre-booking essential).
No matter how you explore the Adelaide Hills, be sure to pack some cash or you’ll kick yourself every time you pass a farmgate or roadside produce stall. Many still operate on an honour system. Trust like this is the epitome of regional charm and a reminder of what makes this part of the world and its people tick.
Top image credit: Nepenthe Wines.
