Goombargona Park

What a tale to tell. Ian Black (with wife Clare Leeuwin-Clark) has myriad connections with wine growers (and consumers), including a long-ago family relationship with Francois de Castella, one of the heroes in the development of the Yarra Valley in the 19th century. Since then, the contacts have become rather more direct, firstly through his two sons completing oenology degrees at CSU, and - prior to that time - an on-again, off-again career as an occasional weekend grapegrower. Goombargona Park (with its wonderful address, no fax, no email and only a postcode to direct the delivery of mail) is his third and most serious wine venture. The fortified wines are made by Ian, not purchased from others. -JAMES HALLIDAY